Two Common Sail Problems That Expert Sail Repair Can Fix

If your sails have seen better days, you may think that replacing them with new sails is your only option. But think again - high-quality, expert sail repair can make old sails look, feel, and perform like new!

Even sails that have been in service for decades can get a new lease on life with expert sail restoration. But the key to getting the longest life out of your sails is to act fast - keep a close eye on your sails and have repairs done as soon as a problem appears.

Here are two of the most common things to look out for:

Stains - The bad news is that stains on sails are an unsightly but unavoidable consequence of regular use. But the good news is that the right cleaning techniques can reliably eradicate just about any kind of stain, including stubborn rust marks.

Returning stained sails to their original beauty is a job for trained and experienced sail repair professionals, however - no amount of washing or do-it-yourself stain removal will give a badly stained sail that like-new look and feel. But in the right hands, professional sail cleaning using tried and tested sail restoration techniques will eliminate stains and leave your sails looking almost as good as they did the day you bought them .... even if that day was thirty or more years ago.

Mainsail, leech edge - The leech or back edge of the mainsail is often the first part of the sail to show wear and tear. Be on the lookout for these signs of leech edge problems:

• You're having trouble setting or trimming the main.
• It's hard to flatten the back edge of the sail
• Using the leech line only seems to cup the back edge instead of helping to flatten or quite down the back edge.
• You see visible signs of wear along the leech/back edge of the sail. This wear may be visible as tiny holes in the fabric, or in extreme cases tears along the stitching may even be visible.

If you note any of the above, it's likely that aging and use have created a problem that requires professional sail repair. As with all sail problems, the sooner you tackle it, the better the chances of successfully repairing it will be. But even severe cases of wear can be fixed by sail restoration specialists.

Three Potential Sail Problems To Look Out For

Batten pockets - Battens and the pockets that hold them provide an important role in shaping your mainsail. As you change direction with the boat, the mainsail moves from one side of the boat to the other. This causes the batten to flex and bend the cloth at the end of the pocket. Over time the cloth can become weak and even tear. If not caught in time the damage can be catastrophic, tearing out the whole pocket back to the leech edge and causing major damage to the sail. This is a problem that's all but impossible to address on your own, but it's a reasonably simple procedure for a sail restoration professional to repair. While making a repair of this kind it would be a good time to replace the elastic in the end of the pocket to keep proper tension on the batten to help maintain good sail shape. However it is important to catch wear in this area as soon as possible, so be sure to inspect your sails regularly for this kind of wear.

Bolt rope has shrunk or drawn up making it hard to raise or lower the main and to get a nice set on the sail - This is a common problem and one that many sailors are told cannot be fixed or adjusted. However the truth is that a good sail restoration professional may very well be able to fix it. In addition, the cost for this type of sail repair is relatively low and it takes very little time to do.

Different sail makers use various types of line or rope in the bolt rope. Nylon is popular because it has stretch, but it also will shrink. If you begin to notice the boom seems to be hanging lower at the clew or back edge of the sail than the tack or front edge of the sail, or if the bottom of the sail seems to have a noticeable bag or extra cloth, the problem could be the bolt rope.

Bag in the lower body of the sail - Another common problem that is almost always due to the sail being stretched by the wind. Sail restoration professionals have a number of ways to make repairs or adjustments that will solve this problem.

Sail Check 101 - Part 1

When was the last time that you took a serious look at your sails? Sails are a big part of the total investment in a sailboat and it's surprising how little attention is often given to that which powers or drives a boat. Here's a little routine that will help keep your sails in tip-top condition and ready to do their job.

Let's start with the head of the main and the headboard plate.

• Is it good and secure?
• Are all the grommets or rivets secure?
• Is the stitching intact?
• Is the shackle hole OK, not worn out?
  

From there work your way down the luff.

• Look for areas where the bolt rope was worn through the sail.
• Feel for any separations in the bolt rope or one that is separated from the body of the sail.
• Look for grommets that have pulled out or gotten out of shape.
• Check all the shackles or webbing that go through the grommets or are attached to the boltrope which in turn are attached to a slide of some sort that in turn goes up and down the mast.
  

Are your luffs crooked?

It's a simple thing to cut a straight edge or a gentle curve in the leading edge of the sail when building it, but when it comes time to attach this to a bolt rope flap, funny things happen. The next thing you know you have a slightly out-of-plumb or crooked luff. This can lead to distortion, strange wrinkles, a sail that's hard to trim, etc. It can also make it hard to raise or lower a sail. All the above items are things that you can take care of.

Now Check reef and Cunningham grommets, tack grommet

Continue on down the luff checking the reef and Cunningham grommets and on down to the tack grommet. All of these from time to time can be loaded up under great pressure and strain. Look for early signs of failure in the overlays that are built into these areas.

Work your way across the foot.

If you have grommets and slides or just a bolt rope five it the same treatment as the luff. At the back end of the sail we find one of the must abused parts of the mainsail, the outhaul or clew. At some point someone tightens the outhaul and then leaves it forever - but why? It's like turning on your windshield wipers and never turning them off. You only need windshield wipers when its raining. You need only tighten the outhaul when you are going hard to weather. Off the wind you need to relax the outhaul. At the very least relax it when you are done sailing. After long periods of outhaul stretch it will have an adverse effect on the lower half of your sail and its shape.


If you spot potential sail problems in any of these areas, it's important to act fast. The sooner you catch a problem, the better the odds for getting your sails back to like-new condition. For the best in sail cleaning, sail restoration, and sail repair, you can count on Sail Care. We've been giving new life to old sails for two decades.

Sail Check 101 - Part 2

Next we take a look at the leech of the sail.

Hopefully you have a leech line in the fold of the sail and its intact and has an easy method of securing it if you put tension on the line. You should never try to flatten the sail by just tightening up the mainsheet. Once you reach a point, use the leech line or if you have it use a flattening reef grommet to tighten the leech of the sail along with the leech line.

As you go over the leech of the sail, check out the batten pockets.

A batten should have a reasonable amount of tension placed on it by the elastic at the bottom of the pocket. What usually happens is the elastic goes bad and to compensate for bad elastic we put a longer batten into the pocket. Bad Idea! Again it distorts the sail and overrides the sail makers design. Tapered battens are good, and the lighter the better. When they are snug in the pocket, one option is to sew the pocket closed. If you have a sewing machine and are handy, you might attempt lifting the leading edge of the batten pocket and replacing the elastic, then stitching the pocket back down.

Finish by checking all the seams.

Don't be afraid to pull on a seam and try to tear it apart - better for it to separate in your hands on the dock than while hard on the wind trying to claw your way off a rocky shore or while trying to make the next mark in one tack and get the jump on the rest of the fleet.

If you spot potential sail problems like these, it's important to act fast. The sooner you catch them, the better the odds for getting your sails back to like-new condition. For the best in sail cleaning, sail restoration, and sail repair, you can count on Sail Care. We've been giving new life to old sails for two decades.

Sail Check 101 - Part 3

How about checking a sail for rot?

If your inspection has come up with an area that looks frail or weak and you wonder if it's rotten, try this. Take a sail maker's needle and try pushing it through the area in question. If it passes through with little effort and meets with little resistance, then try creasing the area sharply and try tearing through the crease. You will know if it's rotten.

An occasional fresh water rinse is good for sails.

• Make sure you let them dry thoroughly before folding them and putting them away.
• Never, never, put dacron/polyester sails into a swimming pool to clean them! It will make the sails brittle, turn them yellow, and but their usable life by two thirds.
• A very mild washing with a mild dishwashing liquid that has no chlorine bleach can remove some of the surface dirt.
  
• Use cold water only. Hot water can increase the intensity of the liquid cleaner and weaken or damage the resin that protects the sailcloth. Also, use only a sponge, not a brush.
  

Follow the same procedure for the jib or Genoa or any other sails.

A trip to your local sail maker on a regular basis can add years to the life of your sail but be careful if he starts talking about replacement. If you have looked you sail over, you know what kind of shape it's in.

If your sail has lost some of its zest, has some stains like rust, grease, blood, etc., needs some repairs or modifications, consider contacting us at Sail Care. We have been cleaning, repairing, and restoring old sails to as near as new as is possible for over 18 years. Each year 3,500 sailors send us their sails from all over the world. We'd like to see your sails next!

Telltales, Part Two

Now check the mainsail

Now lets look at the mainsail. Over 50% of all the sails we clean and recondition at our plant and loft are mainsails, yet fewer than 20% have telltales in place. Telltales properly installed on the main can tell you a lot about the relationship between the headsail and main and the "slot" between them.

Telltales should be positioned on the leech at each batten; usually it takes 4. In the center of the main a little forward of center you will place a pair much in the same way you attached the ones one the jib. Put them between the first and second battens and between the second and third battens, again avoiding seams. (Refer to diagram).

While going to windward with both sails properly trimmed, keep your eye on the leeward telltales on the main. When you have them settled down, lying flat and streaming aft, look at the windward telltales.

At first you will find it difficult to have both sides streaming aft. First try flattening the main. If the bottom pair looks good but not the top, you are close. Ease the traveler and tighten the mainsheet. This should firm up the leech and give you the desired look. Don't get discouraged, a little practice will do wonders.

Then look at the leech

Now let's look at the leech. Exhaust or airflow as it leaves the main should have all telltales streaming aft. This will help to confirm your leech tension setting. Now move the traveler to windward. The telltales should start breaking at the top and work down. If it starts at the bottom first, add more leech tension. Make these adjustments as little at a time. It's more an exercise in finesse than brute strength.

As you bear off and ease your sails out, use the leeward telltales on the jib and the leech telltales on the main to trim well past a beam reach. As you have trimmed in, so will you let out. A little practice will make it second nature, But don't get easily satisfied or complacent! When all looks well I usually ease the sheets a bit and glance at the knot meter. Here we go again.

Don't forget the rig

Now we've covered the sails - how about the rig? Although you don't see it a lot, a lone telltale placed just above your head on the backstay can be a lot of help as you start down wind. Make sure its not in a position to foul or hand up. So goes the telltale, so goes the boom. Use the telltales position to square the boom and mainsail to the wind. If your telltale on the backstay is flying forward to port then the boom and mainsail should also be on the port side, square to the wind.

One last bit of info: If you like flying a spinnaker, you may find that trimming the pole and chute is much easier if you have a telltale attached to the bridle at the center of the pole. This helps to square the pole to the wind, then trim the chute.

Telltales, Part One

Telltales simple devices made out of nylon, wool yarn, cassette tape, etc. and attached to a sail (jib or main) by adhesive locator discs or pulled through the sail with a proper needle and knotted to stay in place. This wonderful little tool is both low cast and very effective if you position it properly and understand how to read them. The following should help you to do both, The end result should make you and your boat better sailors and increase your level of fun!

Start with the headsail

Let's look at the headsail first since it's trimmed first. Telltales should be positioned 8" to 12" back from the luff. I usually use my wrist to my elbow and by dividing the luff into three quarters you will put on three sets, port and starboard, one set each at the quarter, half, and three-quarter mark of the sail (refer to the diagram).

You might have to move the location up or down a bit to avoid a seam, which can cause the telltale to hang up. I prefer adhesive-backed locator discs made out of insignia sloth. These seem to work well, come in a variety of colors, and allow you to position the port and starboard telltales at different levels which will let you see both telltales, since during daylight hours the shadow of the one on the back side will usually show through. If you have acetate trim windows you will have a great view of both telltales.

When sailing close hauled or close reaching, trim the jib until it just stops luffing. Notice the telltale on the windward side. When it stops fluttering and lays smoothly against the sail you are in trim. Check the telltale on the leeward side, it should also be streaming aft, lying still and be parallel to the windward telltale.

At this point, check all telltales top to bottom, If they are all performing the same the headsail is sheeted in properly and you are "in the groove". If the top one is fluttering move the sheeting block forward a bit. If the bottom telltale is fluttering move the block aft.

Once the sheeting angle is correct and the sail is trimmed properly, you can use the telltales to drive the boat. Since they are lighter than sail cloth they will tell you when there is a change in the wind and give you a chance to adjust the helm before luffing the sail.

Heading up should cause the windward telltale to break first, flying upward. When falling off the leeward ones will break and begin to flutter. The more you work with them the better you will become at reading the information they give you.

Sea Sayings - Where They Came From

POSH - "classy and elegant"
This was used in the days when british officials and their families traveled to and from India on steam ships. Their tickets were stamped with "POSH" which meant "Port Out, Starboard Home". This ensured accommodations on the cooler side of the ship both ways.

KNOW THE ROPES - "Skill and experience"
The riggings in a square-rigged ship was a complex network of cordage. The ropes were used to hoist, lower, and trim sails. In this complicated system, each of the hundreds of pieces had a name and function. Running aloft as well as fore and aft, each rope was secured to a belaying pin and identified by its position of the rails running the length of the ship. The mastery of this complex system separated old salts from "Johnny Raws". It was considered so important that discharge papers were once marked "KNOW THE ROPES", thus known as an honorable discharge.

RIG (style of dress)
From the Middle English word rig (to bind or wrap) the rig of a ship denotes the masts, spars, stays, or rigging and the sails that drive the ship. The particular arrangement of the masts and sails differentiates types of vessels such as ship, bark, brig, schooner, sloop, etc., regardless of hull design.

SHIP (an object that can be navigated)
From the Middle English word "schip" (boat), the word is applied in a metaphorical sense to various objects that can be navigated through an obstacle course to a place of safety, strength, or accomplishment.

More Sea Sayings

SHIVER ME TIMBERS (expression denoting surprise or disbelief)
Presumably, this expression alludes to a ship's striking a rock or shoal so hard that her timbers shiver.

SKIPPER (Leader, boss)
The captain or master of a ship is called SKIPPER. The word is from Britain during the fourteenth century and is thought to come from the Dutch "schipper" (captain). The term SKIPPER is frequently applied to a person of leadership or authority.

THREE SHEETS TO THE WIND (an intoxicated state)
On a square-rigged sailing ship, a SHEET is a line attached to the lower corners of a squaresail, used for trimming it to the wind. When sheets are allowed to run free, the sails lose their wind and flap and flutter. The ship's forward motion stops and as she loses steerageway, she becomes impossible to control, thus "THREE SHEETS TO THE WIND"!!

CHEWING THE FAT (idle gabbing)
In the old days of wooden ships and iron men, crews talked and grumbled while CHEWING THE FAT, or eating their daily ration of brine-toughened pork. CHEWING THE FAT is a nautical expression that lost its negativity when it washed ashore. It has come to mean an idle, friendly talk.

BY THE BOARDS (missed opportunity)
When a ship's mast falls over the side and is carried away, it is said to have gone by the boards - literally by the wooden deck and hull planking. Figuratively, the expression means something that has passed by, particularly a missed opportunity.

SUN IS OVER THE YARDARM (time for happy hour to begin)
This expression is thought to have originated by officers sailing in the North Atlantic. In those latitudes, the sun would rise above the yardarms (the horizontal Spars mounted on the masts, where squaresails were hung) around 11 a.m. Since this coincided with the forenoon "stand easy", officers would take a break to below for their first lot of spirits for the day. The expression washed ashore, where the sun appears over the yardarm a bit later in the day - around 5 p.m., or the end of the workday, whichever comes first.